Mary Lyrio


marydauto@yahoo.com.br
marydtlyrio@gmail.com

ALL ABOUT EYE SHADOW, EYELINER, EYEBROW AND LASHES MASCARA

21/12/2015 21:52

Continuing the series, prerequisites for drawing up a perfect makeup, today I will talk about eye makeup that consists of: shadow, eyeliner, eyebrow makeup and mascara or mask lashes. Click on the link:  SERIES OF PREREQUISITE FOR MAKE UP PERFECT

 

SHADOW

The eyes are the most expressive part of the face. They convey our emotions. For no other reason, many consider the "mirror of our soul."

For the artist the makeup, the eyes are the Best Face screens as they allow various creations and use of all colors.

Since ancient times, women liked to paint. 

In ancient Egypt, they used malachite and kohl paste to paint the eyes. Over the centuries, until the shadow of creation in the early 20th century, women used these and many other substances.

In 1914, Max Factor launched the first commercial shadow henna base.

The way to apply the shadow and the colors vary greatly from its marketing and throughout the 20th century.

10 DECADE

  

- In the first half of the decade, the shadow was applied across mobile and fixed eyelid and the region of the lower lashes. The most used colors were light brown and beige.

- In the second half of the decade, the eyes have become more marked. The shadow was applied across mobile and fixed eyelid, and was pulled slightly away giving the start to look vamp (resembling the eye "kitten" today) that will be used a lot in the first half of 20 decade . the favorite color was dark brown.

20 DECADE

  

- In the first half of the decade, the shadow is similar to the end of the previous decade, with few differences: the color was darker and trace pulled out from got bigger. The most used colors were dark brown and black.

- In the second half of the decade, the eye vamp was no longer so fashionable. The shadow was applied to the mobile eyelid and the most widely used color was light brown.

30 DECADE

- Women began to use two shadow shades of the same color. The darker tone was applied to the mobile eyelid and the lighter tone was applied to the fixed eyelid.

40 DECADE

- The shadow was applied to the entire mobile eyelid and the most used colors were brown and gray.

50 DECADE

- Increase the variety of shades of colors. The shadow was applied to the mobile eyelid and pulled up and out toward the ends of the eyebrows. Women matched the shade with the dress color and the colors were in lighter shades.

60 DECADE

- The shadow was applied in mobile and fixed eyelid. The shades were pastries and the most used colors were white, silver, lilac, blue and green. Women of clear eyes matched the color of the shadow to eye color. A highlight was the eyeliner, which was the same color shade and applied as a thick line.

  

         DAY                             NIGHT

The shadow was the indispensable item of makeup and was very colorful. He wore one, two or three colors were applied and the two eyelids. The most commonly used color was blue. The main combinations were: pink with blue, blue with lilac, pink with lilac and green with blue. At night. the shadows had stronger tones and sparkling finish or with glitter. It applied in the two lids and line the lower lashes

80 DECADE

- Was applied across mobile and fixed eyelid eyelid, pulling to the outside line of the eyebrow. He used is one, two or three colors. The shadows were very colorful, strong shades and some neon colors.

90 DECADE

 

            BEGINNING                  MEAN                                 END

The shadow was applied in the same way as in the 80s.

Early in the decade, the most predominant colors were the same of the previous decade. In the middle of the decade, the predominant colors were neutral. In the the late 90s, blue, pink and lilac return to predominate, but in lighter shades.

 

TYPES OF SHADOWS

I - AS TO THE CONSISTENCY

1 - SHADOWS IN POWDER

1.1 - POWDER COMPACT SHADOWS IN

   

They are easy to implement and allow to build layers to achieve the desired color. They have good stability and durability. Should be applied with a brush or your fingertips.

1.2 - SHADOWS LOOSE POWDER

    

Are micro particulates pigmented, easy to apply, but require skill to not spread the powder all over the face. Allow you to build layers to get the desired color. Are well pigmented, they have good fixation and good durability. Should be applied with a damp brush or the tip of the wet fingers. An excellent product to apply loose powder shadow is the liquid fixer makeup.

2 - CREAM

    

They have mousse texture for more condensed. They are easy to apply and have good pigmentation. However, the course of the day, can build up in the lines of the eyes. To increase the durability can be used as the basis for powder shadow. Can be applied with a sponge or with the fingertips.

3 - LIQUID OR FLUID

    

They are well pigmented with a translucent color effect. It has good durability. Require skill in time to apply, because they dry quickly. They are ideal to be used as eyeliner on the upper lash line. Can be applied by brush or fingertip. For those with sensitive eyes, they are great options because there is no risk of them running down to dento eye.

4 - SOLID

They are presented in the form of:

4.1 - PEN OR PENCIL

  

The texture varies from the creamy semi creamy. They can also be used as a liner or base to shadow powder.

4.2 - STICK

  

Are similar to the shadow pencil-shaped, also have the semi creamy texture creamy. They are well pigmented, but have high durability.

- 4.3 - POLKA DOTS

 

Have a silky texture, they are well pigmented and average durability. Can be applied by brush.

HINT- It is not recommended to use more than one liquid or creamy shade, since it can greatly compromise the result. Especially if the person does not have a lot of skill.

NOTE: As I said in the text of face powder, currently on the market, there is shadow preservative, called mineral shadow.

 

II - AS TO THE FINISH

As well as lipsticks, shadows have two types of finishes: matte and opaque or shiny.

Opaque or matte shadows have a velvety and dull finish.

Those which are glossy can be:

Scintillating - high solids and high brightness.

Metallic - high solids and very bright.

Just as lipsticks, some companies create their own names for their finishes. And again I will exemplify the case of the Mac, which has a wide variety of finishes.

- MATTE   

Shadows are opaque, dull and well pigmented, with high durability

- MATTE 2

They are semi-opaque and pigmented, with high durability

- SATIN

Satin finish with slight sheen. They have an average pigmentation and medium durability.

- LUSTRE 

Are micro particulates, very thin and very glossy texture, with low pigmentation. Depending on the form of application, durability able to go from low to average.

- FROST

They have a pearly luster and medium pigmentation, with an average durability.

- VELUXE

They are a shadow of silky texture and matte finish, average pigmentation and medium durability.

- VELUXE PEARL

They have velvety texture. metallic finish, average pigmentation and medium durability.

- VELVET

Have velvety textures are glossy and micro particulates of glitter. They have good pigmentation and durability.

 

EYELINER

   

If you want to use the eyeliner, it has to be applied before the shadows.

Several types of liner: liquid, gel, shaped like a pen and pencil-shaped. For those who do not have much experience, eyeliner pen-shaped and shaped pencils are better.

The eyeliner should be applied in accordance with the format of each eye.

Eyes large combine with any outlined. Thicker traces decrease the size of the eyes and create depth. Start with a thin trace in the corner of the eye and go thickening towards the outer corner.

People with fallen together or eyes look good with outlined kitten, she looks up and gives the impression that the eyes are further apart.

The widely separated or protruding eyes, in turn, are better outlined with all else being equal, beginning and ending of the same size.

Already deep eyes and encapsulated should avoid passing the eyeliner or else should just make a smaller outlined kitten and pull you into line to the middle of the upper eyelashes line.

 

HOW TO KITTEN EYE

    INITIAL PITCH             FINALIZATION

- To a certain dash of eyeliner, draw an imaginary line between the end of the corner of his eye and the end of eyebrows.

- Hold the skin below the eye with your finger and do one risk. When holding the skin, careful not to pull too much or stretch to one side, so that the perfect skirt dash.

- The thickness of the outlined risk will be defined by the size risk, you made toward the imaginary line. The lower the risk thinner the trait. The larger and closer to the eyebrow, will be thicker.

- Now start work around the line of the upper eyelashes. For the line becomes more certain, use the eyeliner upright with the tip facing up.

- Pull the trace up just beyond the middle of the line of the upper eyelashes.

- Finish by connecting the trace of the external corner of the eye with the contour trace of lashes

 
 

SHADOW OF APPLICATION

 

1 - EYELID FIXED

2 - EYELID MOBILE

3 -CONCAVE

4 - CORNER INTERNAL MOBILE EYELID

5 - UPPER LINE EYELASH

6 - CORNER INTERNAL EYE

7 - BOTTOM LINE EYELASH

8 - EXTERNAL CORNER OF EYELIDS FIXED AND MOBILE.

Before applying the shadow you should use a primer or pencil Jumbo Nyx.

The primer has the following purposes: to facilitate application of the product, providing better fixation and increasing durability.

The pencil jumbo has the same functions of primer and further intensifies the color of the product. In my experience, the jumbo pencil provides longer product life compared to the primer.

For those with an eye on encapsulated format like mine, in which the fixed eyelid covers the entire mobile eyelid, forming a "hood" (hence the name), I advise using jumbo pencil because fixed better shade. It is also necessary to choose a shadow of excellent quality, because when the eye is open eyelids can rub blurring the product.

In the case of powder shadow, if you do not have a lot of skill to apply, I advise using it before passing the concealer, because if you miss or dust seeping beyond the eyelid, can be removed without compromising the makeup.

But if you have experience, you can apply it at the end of makeup. And to ensure that there is no problem applying a reasonable amount of translucent powder over the concealer because the drain shadow will fall on the dust. And in the end it's just remove dust with the brush fan or a very fluffy brush. However, remove any excess powder to avoid compromising the lighting in this area, especially if you are doing flash photography.

Apply with appropriate brush or your fingers. In the case of loose powder or glitter dampen a little brush or your finger.

There are several techniques in the shadow of application: illuminate the corners and the area below the eyebrows, use darker shadows at the outer corners, highlight the concave, pulling eye "kitten" on the outside, wear light shade to highlight, dark shadow to create depth and many others. However each person has specific characteristics of an eye. Then, each of these techniques are better suited to certain types of eyes. Here I will explain about the eyes formats that benefit from specific techniques. To learn what features your eyes, click on the link: EYE, SHAPES AND CHARACTERISTICS

ENCAPSULATED EYES OR HOODED EYES

A -

B -

C -

The purpose of this eye shape is to give the impression that the fixed eyelid is less chubby creating a depth effect. In this type of eye, do not mark the concave to not stress hood effect. Always make the contrast of a light shade with a darker. The fixed eyelid, always give preference to the darkest and the mobile eyelid to lighter shades.

A - In the entire mobile eyelid, I applied the shadow of midtone (yellow). In the fixed eyelid inner corner, I applied the shadow lighter (salmon) diagonally. In the rest of the fixed eyelid, I applied the darker shade (orange), doing a smoky where the shadows were joined, pulling her to the outer corner of the eyebrow.

B - From the outer corner of the bone below the eyebrow to the inner corner of the eye, I applied the lighter shade (green water), forming a concave line or half moon. The inner corner of the eyelid mobile, rising to the fixed eyelid, following the whole contour of the half moon, applied the medium shade (green). Then I came down with this shadow diagonal line until just before the middle of the mobile eyelid. Lastly, I applied a darker shade (red) to the outer corner of the eye, up to find the other shadow, in every point that shadows found themselves, I made a slight smoky.

C - In the fixed eyelid inner corner to the inner corner of the eyes, I applied the illuminating shade (beige) in a diagonal manner. Across mobile and fixed eyelid to the outer corner of the eyebrow, I applied a light shade (yellow). Shortly before the middle of the mobile eyelid, rising diagonally to the fixed eyelid, applied on the yellow shadow. the dark Shadow (black) by pulling it until the end of the eyebrow, linking it with the outer corner of the eye.

SALIENT EYES

A-

B-

C -

Eyes are designed out. These kinds of eyes allow us to play with colors, because the mobile eyelid is very large. But if the goal is to create depth to the eyes, the ideal is to use dark eye shadows. So darken the entire line of Eye concave esfumaçando a bit to let more marked, it will give more depth. Work around the lower lashes with black eyeliner or dark eye shadow, it will help create the depth effect.

A - I used two colors of shadows with strong shades (fuchsia and navy), a shadow with lighter shade (yellow) and an illuminating shade (beige). At the inner corner of the eyelid fixed and in late of the bone below the eyebrow, I applied the illuminating shade. On the line the upper lashes, I applied the fuchsia shade, pulling up just beyond the corner of his eye, making a small dash toward the end of the eyebrow. Then I applied the blue shadow following the previous contour. Lastly, I applied the last shadow on the rest of the mobile eyelid and all fixed eyelid until the end of the eyebrow. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the same shade used in all mobile eyelid.

B- I applied a light shade (gray) at the inner corner of the mobile eyelid and on the outer line of the bone below the eyebrow. Then I applied the dark shadow (black) across mobile and fixed eyelid eyelid (except in the inner corner), pulling out and below the bone below the eyebrow until the end of the eyebrow

C - I applied a light shade in the inner corner of the eyelid mobile, pulling diagonally to the middle bone below the eyebrow. Then I applied a darker shade on both eyelids pulling the end of the eyebrow

EYES DEEP

A - 

B - 

C - 

The goal in this case is to decrease the depth of the eyes.

The main tip is to lighten the look without much mark the concave, because this region is already quite evident in this kind of eye. Use an illuminating Shadow in the inner corners and the bone below the eyebrows. Cover the entire mobile eyelid and fixed with light-colored shadows. At the outer corner, use a shadow a slightly darker tone, and lightly mark the middle of the concave with the same shade.

Another technique is to cover the entire mobile eyelid with a light shade and fixed eyelid with a slightly lighter shade.

To open more eyes, pass in the region of the lower lashes the same shade of color applied on the eyelids.

Avoid shades of very dark or black shades therefore further increase the depth of the eyes.

A - Throughout bone below the eyebrow, I applied the illuminating shade (beige). Across mobile and fixed eyelid until the end of the eyebrow, I applied the lighter shade (yellow). In the middle of the concave line, I did a smoky darker shade (orange), pulling it down to the end of the movable eyelid, overlapping the lighter shade. Then pulled the dark shadow (orange) toward the end of the eyebrow, forming a design similar to the enlarged kitten eye. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the lighter shade.

B - In the entire mobile eyelid, pulling out slightly towards the end of the eyebrow, I applied the dark shadow. The inner corner of the eyelid fixed up a bit above the horizontal half of it, I applied the dark shadow skirting rounded to meet the other end of the shadow. At the top of the fixed eyelid, bypassing all bone below the eyebrow to the outside, I applied the lighter shade. On the line the lower lashes applied, the darker shade.

C - The application was the same as the figure "B", the difereça are in colors and lower lashes where I applied the two shadows.

SEPARATE EYES

A - 

B -

C- 

The goal is to create the illusion that the eyes are closer together. The secret is to use a dark shadow in the inner corners and a clearer at the outer corners.

If using a dark shadow at the outer corners, do not exceed the limits eyelid. Avoid making eye "kitten" because it will print more distant eyes.

If you do the smoky concave, it should be darker in the region close to the inside corners.

A - I applied a dark shadow (brown) at the inner corner of the eyelid mobile and inside, the fixed eyelid. I brought this shadow always on the concave line height, even a little addition to the middle of the mobile eyelid, and finished in a diagonal manner. Then I applied a light shadow (land) making u smoky shadows where the two came together, and pulling it to the outermost corner of the eyelid mobile, without pulling out.On the line the lower lashes, I applied the same light shadow.

B - I applied a darker shadow across mobile eyelid (red) and above applied a lighter shadow (light plum) at the outer corner of the eyelid mobile, pulling it in and fixed eyelid. I did a smoky on the line of the concave. On the line the lower lashes, I applied a black pencil without the smoky because the black already reduces the eye. If I did the smoky, increase the area painted black and the eye diminish greatly.

c - On the line the upper lashes, from the outside in, I applied a darker shade (purple), lifting it from just beyond the middle of the upper eyelashes, Manaíra diagonally toward the inner corner of the eyelid mobile. Then I applied the lighter shade (pink) in the rest of the mobile eyelid, pulling her out.

TOGETHER EYES

A - 

B - 

C - 

The process is opposite to the separate eyes. Here the trick is to illuminate the inner corners. You can use a light shade in the inner corner and a darker shadow on the outer corners. If you want you can make the eye "kitten".

If you do the smoky concave, it should be darker in the region close to the outer corners.

A - I applied the lighter shade (Solomon) across horizontal half of the mobile eyelid and pulled out towards the end of the eyebrow. The rest of the mobile eyelid, I applied a darker shade (orange) and pulled up to find the end of another shadow. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the lighter shade in the inner corner and the darkest shadow on the rest of the line.

B - I applied three light shades (blue, yellow and pink). The mobile eyelid (blue and yellow), I did the same procedure in Figure "A". The third shadow, applied in the middle of the concave line and pulled up toward the end of the eyebrow, joining with the end of the other.

C - First, I did a little eye "kitten". After I applied two clear shadows (blue and pink) and a shadow slightly darker (navy). The process was very similar to previous. In the mobile eyelid, instead of using dual tone shades, three shades I applied. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the lighter shade.

- EYES ASIAN

B -

C- 

In this case, the surface of the eyelid is flat and does not usually have creases or folds. Therefore, the goal is to create concave illusion defined and larger eyes. And the trick to this is to play with light and shadow. Brighten the corners of the eyes with white shadow and apply white pencil on the waterline of the lower lashes.

Use light shadows to increase your eyes more. To create the illusion of concave mark, with a shade of dark shade, where would have the line of côcavo. Then make a smoky from the outside to the middle. Apply the same shadow used on the eyelid on the line the lower lashes, will open more eyes.

A - I applied the midtone shade (yellow) from the middle of the upper eyelashes line up at a slant, pulling her out on diração the end of the eyebrow. Then I applied a darker shade (orange) in the continuity of the upper eyelashes line until just before the inside corner of the mobile eyelid. Then I pulled this shadow at a slant to the outside, toward the end of the eyebrow, joining with the previous shadow. Lastly, I pulled a lighter shade of the inner corner of eye to it join with the other, at the end of the eyebrow. I made a contour with the medium shadow (yellow) at the inner corner of the upper eyelashes, passing through the inner corner of the eye halfway line the lower lashes. In the rest of the line, I used the darker shadow.

B - The technique was the same used in the "C" figure of the eye together.

C - Technical eyelids was similar to the "A" figure. And in line the lower lashes, I applied a shadow.

 

ESCOLHA DA COR

The eye is the best space face for using colors. One can use one, two or three, more than this may be exaggerated. However it is necessary to know how to combine colors in harmony, and the best way to understand how to combine colors is through the color wheel. In order to understand all combinations click here: COLORS AND MAKEUP

Avoid combining the shadow color in eye color because the color of the iris not highlight. Some examples:

GREEN EYES:

COMBINATIONS INADEQUATE

COMBINATIONS APPROPRIATE

 

BLUE EYES:

COMBINATIONS INADEQUATE

COMBINATIONS APPROPRIATE

 
 

EYEBROWS

Eyebrows are delicate hairs above the eyes and on the edge of the brow ridges.

A major function is to protect the eyes from sweat that drips from his forehead and rainwater.

Along with the brow ridges, eyebrows are a kind of "shadow" to the eye.

But they also have communication function. Because people can express feelings such as anger, surprise, surprise, through the eyebrows.

Currently, the beauty industry offers us different ways to have the perfect brow. If you want to thicken, sharpen, stretch, fill, arch ... Every day more is seen the steady increase in beauty salons that offer this extra service: eyebrow design, semi-permanent makeup or micropigmentation.

 

CHARTS TYPES OF EYEBROWS

 

TYPES OF EYEBROWS: CENTURY 20 THE PRESENT DAY

    

In the decade of 10, they were thick and followed his natural line.

In the latter half of the 20s, women began to remove some hair from the eyebrows to make them thinner

In the 30s, they shaved eyebrows and drawing with pencil very thin and with the long bow.

   

In the 40s, eyebrows were no longer thin and still arched.

In the 50's, stars such as Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot brought a little thick eyebrows and S-shaped which made  very successful.

     

In the 1960s, Twiggy brings back the design of thinner eyebrows arched and marked with pencil.

In the 70s, the actress and eternal Panther Farrah Fawcett made school with its beautiful tresses and her eyebrows in a closed arc.

In the 80s, his eyebrows were thick and well combed.

In the 1990s, the eyebrows are again fine and the high arch.

 

In the first decades of the new millennium, the eyebrows remained thin, with a high arch.

Already today, people tend to adapt to the eyebrow face shape.

 

TYPES OF EYEBROWS FOR EVERY FACE TYPES

FACE PEAR AND FACE DIAMANTE- round eyebrow and middle arch.

- FACE HEART AND FACE INVERTED TRIANGLE – eyebrow-shaped S.

- FACE OVAL - Round eyebrow low arch.

- FACE SQUARE - soft eyebrow angle and high arch.

- FACE RECTANGULAR - Round eyebrow and middle arch.

- ROUND FACE - eyebrow-shaped S.

THEORY TO REDESIGN THE EYEBROW

  

- Position yourself in front of the mirror and look straight ahead.

- Draw a vertical line, with pencil or ruler, between the side of the nose line and the inner corner of the eye. This point is where the eyebrow begins. Repeat the process on the other side. In image 2, this line is represented by the number 1.

- To determine the point of the eyebrow bend, draw a straight out of the outer edge of your nose, going below the pupil. Where the line intersects the top of the eyebrow, the beginning means of the upper arch. Select the pencil and repeat for the other eye. In Figure 2 this line is represented by the number 2.

- Now Draw a line between the outer edge of the nose and the outer part of the eye (not the eyelashes); this will tell you where the brow should end. Mark with a pencil, repeat for the other eye. In Figure 2, this line is represented by the number 3.

- To the ends are parallel, it may be necessary depending on the eyebrow shape, draw a straight line between point 1 and point 3 represented in Figure 2, the number 4.

The thickness of the eyebrows is determminada according to her face.

If the features of his face are large and striking, the thickness should be thick because a thin eyebrow will further highlight the facial features.

If your features are smaller or more delicate, the thickness of the eyebrow should be fine will average because a thick eyebrow will overwhelm the face.

 
 

HOW TO CORRECT FAILURES IN THE EYEBROWS

1 - MAKEUP

1.1 - EYEBROW OF MASCARA

     

How to apply:

 

- Initially comb the eyebrows inside out, to leave the wires in the same direction. 

- If you have a hair out of place, remove with tweezers.

- Go around the entire drawing the eyebrow pencil and then Blur with a small beveled brush, and apply a light coat of pencil across the brow.

- Apply the mascara throughout eyebrow in towards the inside.

1.2 - CREAM IN EYEBROW GEL

    

How to apply:

 

- Pass the inside eyebrows comb out to let the wires in the same direction.

- If you have some excess remove with tweezers.

- Go around the entire drawing the eyebrow pencil and then make a smoky with a small beveled brush and apply a light coat of pencil.

- Apply the gel with beveled brush.

1.3 - EYEBROW SHADOW

    

How to apply:

 

- Pass the inside eyebrows comb out to let the wires in the same direction.

- If you have some excess remove with tweezers.

- Go around the entire drawing the eyebrow pencil and then make a smoky with a small beveled brush and apply a light coat of pencil.

- Apply shadow with beveled brush.

 

2 - WTH HENNA

Henna is a dye extracted from a plant (Lawsonia inermis), which is widely used to paint hair and to paint the body.

It is intended to correct minor flaws eyebrow. It has a life span of 12 to 15 days depending on the skin type.

Before being applied is recommended to do a test to see if the skin is not allergic to the product,

The most appropriate is to look for a salon that has eyebrows professionals and do the procedure.

 

- MICROPIGMENTATION OR SEMI-PERMANENT MAKEUP

Click on the link: MICROPIGMENTATION OR SEMI-PERMANENT MAKEUP

 

 

EYELASHES

 

Eyelashes are small hairs at the ends of the eyelids that protect the eyeballs.

HOW TO APPLY EYELASHES MASCARA 

Knowing how to choose the type of mask according to your need make much difference in the outcome of makeup. There are products to extend, increase volume, curl and color the eyelashes. Each has a specific formulation and brushes for each type of result.

- And curved eyelashes, apply cuvex the eyelashes. Some professionals prefer to apply the eyelash curler before mascara. Others like to apply at the end, after the already dry mascara.

- For more elongated and better defined lashes, apply primer to the lashes. Pass the first layer from root to tip of the lashes and let it dry. Then apply a second coat from root to tip, giving a slightly curved. Allow to dry for applying mascara.

- Remove excess product applicator and then apply towards the root to the tips of lashes in a straight zig-zag. Apply a second coat from root to tip, giving a curved slightly at the ends.