Mary Lyrio


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VINTAGE MAKEUP CENTURY 20th: 70's

30/08/2015 18:00

                                                           

                         

 

The 70s was marked by great economic, political and social movements.

The women's struggle for equal rights and political and economic freedom and began the second wave of the feminist movement.

And the women won major victories. Several European countries have passed equal pay laws for men and women. In 1972, some all-male courses at Oxford University opened its doors to women in 1979 and Margaret Thatcher is elected first woman minister of the United Kingdom.

Throughout the decade, Brazil is ruled by a military dictatorship. The dictatorship reached the peak of its popularity in the mid-1970s, with the "economic miracle" in the same time the regime censored all the country's media, tortured and exilava dissidents.

In music, at 70, comes to an end The Beatles and Elvis Presley dies 73, both had greatly influenced the fashion and behavior in the previous decade.

Early in the decade, the hippie movement is still very strong.

Punk

In the mid-70s, the Punk arises, which is a movement of youth subculture originating in the United States, Australia and the UK. The movement will have influence on rock music, in fashion, the arts and film.

Television was a national obsession in many Western countries.

With ads, music shows and numerous series and programs, television had much influence on behavior and fashion.

The cinema and fashion magazines still also having a lot of influence.

Some of TV series

- I Dream of Jeannie - 65-70 starring Barbara Eden and Larry Hagman

- BEWITCHED - 69 72 starring Elizabeth Montgomery and Dick York.

- WONDER WOMAN - 75 A 79 starring Lynda Carter.

- BIONIC WOMAN -76-78 starring Lindsay Wagner. 

- CHARLIE'S ANGELS - 76 to 81 starring Farrah Fawcett, Jaclyn Smith and David Doyle.

- HART TO HART - 79 to 84 starring Robert Wagner and Stefanie Powers

Another feature of this period was very tanned skin. Women liked to go to the beach and sunbathe. There were several ad tanning.

Thus we see a change in the conception of society, which in previous decades, the white skin was synonymous with the aristocracy and the burned skin from the sun, was synonymous with work in the field. Here tanned skin has become synonymous with free time for leisure and the beach became a favorite outing on vacation. The Girl from Ipanema music composed in the 60s by Vinicius de Moraes and Antonio Carlos Jobim became known worldwide when recorded by Frank Sinatra in the late 60's and is the girl from the beach.

"Tall and tan and young and lovely 
The girl from Ipanema goes walking 
And when she passes, each one 
she passes goes - ah 
When she walks, she's like a samba 
That swings so cool and sways so gentle 
That when she passes, each one 
she passes goes - ah (...)." 

    

                         Girl from Ipanema

Some of the actresses who greatly influenced the behavior and women style were: Farrah Fawcett (Panthers), Diane Keaton, Faye Dunaway, Lindsay Wagner (bionic woman), Stefanie Powers (Hart to Hart), Lynda Carter (Wonder Woman), Joanna Lumley Elizabeth Montgomery, Barbara Eden (I Dream of Jeannie), Joan Collins and Jene Fonda

     

                     Farrah Fawcett                                     Diane Keaton

            Faye Dunaway                                             Lindsay Wagner

   

           Stefanie Powers                                           Lynda Carter

           Joanna Lumley                               Elizabeth Montgomery

 

              Barbara Eden                                                Jane Fonda

                   Joan Collins

 

In the early 70s there was a revival in the second half of the 20s and some films as The Boy Friend (1971) and The Great Gatsby (1974) brought this time around and had a share of influence in women's makeup mainly on the eyebrows that turned to be more defined.

Shortly after the second half of the 70s, there is the discotheque and disco music, whose big stars Donna Summer, The Bee Gees, KC and the Sunshine Band, ABBA and Chic. And they influence very fashionable and makeup of the time.

A film that was a big hit was - Saturday Night Fever.

 

 Saturday Night Fever                          Donna Summer 

Other musical rhythm that had great influence on fashion in the 70's was the Bob Marley reggae with Rastafarian style.

Early in the decade, the market for clothes prêt à porter grows and in the year 73, the great haute couture designers have also started to produce ready-made clothes and twice a year presenting his collections in Paris.

In the mid-70s, the parades began to take place in Milan, Tokyo, London and New York. However, strict couture system, created by Charles Frederick Worth, in the nineteenth century was not extinct, continued to have great influence in the fashion world, particularly among consumers of high-end luxury.

Fashion in the 70s was very eclectic, very colorful, as much for women as for men.

The Jeans was one of the symbols of this decade. it came in long skirts or midi, pants bell mouth or straight pants.

The bell-mouth pants, fabric, were widely used throughout the decade of 70. They were very colorful and, in most cases, used to the same color pants and blouse, forming a set. It is used with blazer, button blouses, tops and T-shirts.

The mini skirts that had been invented in the previous decade came with all his might, in various designs, sizes, patterns and colors. They were used with various types of shoes, but the most common among joveens was the doll shoe style with knee socks wore it with shirts with button, pure, with scarf or ties. Also he wore, shirts and mini blazer.

In Russia I used a lot the stocking with shorts and berets.

The dresses came mini, midi and long. Minis and midis them, were normally évasée. The fabrics were smooth pure, smooth comdetalhes, floral, striped or checkered. The long, most were loose dresses with floral prints.

 

Another most widely used style in this decade was the dress "bata" (unfamiliar translation into English) with high boots. And the boots have come in various colors and models

A very common style in Russia were the sets, skirt-midi and blazer. And it is always used in combination with the shoes and the bag. The Russian also used very berets.

The disk had fashion various styles, but the most commonly used were overalls or bell-bottom pants in very shiny fabrics or skirts and short dresses, shiny fabrics, with boots.

The men's fashion as well with the female was very colorful and tissues were various patterns, such as chess and flowers. The high waist pants and bell-bottoms was predominantly the most used.

The jeans came into fashion pants, jacket and overalls. The most widely used pants style was the bell mouth. The younger wore pants with side embroidery and combined with shirts that also had embroidery.

 

The sport-thin style was the bell-bottom pants with high waist. The pants were of various colors, with smooth or checkered fabric. The blouses were button with plain fabrics, floral prints or squared.

 
 

The disco was the bell-bottom pants with suit, vest and shirt collar and long sleeves and shiny fabric with colorful blouses and overalls of long sleeves. They also had the bell-bottom pants with shirts, wide open or set of pants and blazer.

 

Another style that was very successful in this decade was the unisex. That was propagated in the fashion magazine pages, with clothing ads "for him and her."

Foram vários os tipos de cortes e penteados

SHAG

            Jane Fonda      

It was created by hairstylist Paul McGregor for the character of Jane Fonda, Bree Daniels. It is a unisex cut with layers and sides forming a full fringe.

WEDGE

                  Dorothy Hamill

It was created by Vidal Sassoon. Cutting short, with side, steep and angled layers, giving a very bulky appearance.

 

STACKED PERMS

       Donna Summer 

Permanent curls, piled giving a wig format. Widely used by Donna Summer.

 

MOHAWK PUNK

Of various styles and various colors.

CORNROWS

     Cicely Tyson

African braids, rooted in the scalp, very used by actress Cicely Tyson

CABELOS ENROLADOS

      Barbara Streisand     

 

Widely used in the disco.

 

THE "FARRAH"

It was created by hairstylist Allen Edwards at 76 for the character of Farrah Fawcett in the series - Charlie's Angels. It was a long gash in overturned layers inside, the platinum blonde color. This cut was the most copied this and the next decade and led many women to lotarem beauty salons.

 

Hairstyles and men's cuts also very varied.

LONG HAIR

 

SHAG

Same as female

 

JHERI CURL

It was created by American hairstylist Jheri Redding. The creation of this hairstyle involves two steps: First, the hair is softened and stretched and then with chemicals is made a permanent wrapped.

 

THE MULLET

It was a very popular cut and consists of two distinct parts: short layers on the top and sides and long hair at the back.

SURFER HAIR

Cut with side layers and grand fringe

 

MOHAWK PUNK

Of various styles and various colors.

 

MAKEUP

The feminist movement was growing, women no longer wanted to be housewives, there was a blast of women working outside, leading a strong impact on advertising and in the cosmetics industry.

The cosmetic brands began to abandon the outdated representations of women housewife who had to be beautiful for her husband, and arises independent woman, working out, but still remains beautiful.

There were lots of makeup options: and those that stood out were: Revlon, Rimmel, Biba, Max Factor, Yardley, Coty, Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden, Ricilsóie, Maybelline, Dior, Avon, Charles of the Ritz, Harriet Hubbard Ayer, Cover Girl and Chanel. All names are well known in the cosmetic market, although the success varying from country to country.

For example, Rimmel, Yardley and Biba were popular in their own home in Britain but less so abroad. The Biba, despite being restricted to that decade, it was a very popular brand, to the point that at 74 she occupies seven floors of a department store in London under the name of Big Biba.

Cover Girl and Maybelline were very popular in the United States.

The Max Factor who had the lead in the decades starting in the late 70s, to suffer a decline in their profit margin, having as one of the main causes of the fact that there is no other family representative as president of the company.

During this decade emerged specific makeup for black women.

The Fashion Fair Cosmetics debuted in 1973 with a line exclusively for black-skinned and had ads with famous black women as Natalie Cole, Aretha Franklin and Diahann Carroll.

Established brands expanded their hand fans to include makeup for darker skin tones and Avon took the lead.

In 1974, Vogue was the first popular magazine with a black model on the cover - Beverly Johnson

 

MAGAZINES DA DECADE

 

LAUNVHES

1970 - Max Factor launches Pure Magic lipgloss - shiny gloss in various colors and Ultralucent Face Makeup Collection - shadow line of colored eyes.

- Maybelline launches shadow cream in 5 colors - blue, green, white, lilac and yellow and Duo shadows.

- Revlon launches line Platinum & Pearls - lipstick and nail polish, platinum and pearl.

- Coty launches Liquid Makeup - liquid foundation.

1971 - Yardeley launches sigh shandow - shade in fine powder. liquid.

- Rimmel launches makeup and nail polish line.

- Max Factor launches two lines Pure Magic: the first comprised of lip gloss and shadow shiny and the second by lipstick and blue eyeshadow.

- Maybelline launches lipgloss roll-on, shadows on ultra velvety powder and eye makeup kit, consisting of trio of shadows, eyeliner eyebrows and eyelashes mask.

- Revlon launches Extra long big lash mask - mask for extra large eyelashes

- Helena Rubinstein launches Designing Eyes kit - composed of shadow in blue color, shade of eyelashes and eyebrows mask folder.

- Lancôme launches, Makeup Eye with the slogan: Sprekend ogen door - Speaking with the eyes.

1972 - Yardeley launches in pot gloss and eye make-up kit, consisting of shadow mask and eyeliner.

- Maybelline launches line of eye shadows colorful flowers and kit with gloss and shadow duo.

- Max Factor launches 2 ultralucent lines waterproof makeup - face line and line eyes.

- Elizabeth Arden lança kit de maquiagem para os olhos com slogan: Self portrait eyes – auto-retrato dos olhos

- Ricilsóie - launches kit makeup eyes with the slogan: Seduction on your eyelids.

Charles of the Ritz Launches Face Makeup kit.

- Harriet Hubbard Ayer launches eye makeup in three shades of blue.

- Helena Rubinstein launches Brush on lipcreme.

- Biba launches its collection of eye makeup in shades of blue and lilac.

1973 - Maybelline launches Eye shadow Colors That cling and fresh face blush.

- Cover Girl launches Shiny Shadows and face makeup kit.

- Dior launches line Eye Color Dior.

- Max Factor makeup line launches California and Eye Makeup Summer.

- Elizabeth Arden launches invisible illuminator.

- Revlon launches makeup Touch & Glow face - heen with foundation.

- Yardeley launches Makeup China brights eyes.

1974 - Avon launches line eyes sweet honesty.

- Maybelline launches lipgloss kissing slicks, powder-twist shadows in 12 colors and automatic cream-on shadow.

Revlon Launches New shiny eyecrayon pencils.

- Max Factor launches ultralucent face glazer.

- Ricilsóie launches complete line of makeup.

- Fashion Fair launches 2nd collection of makeup for black women.

- Coty launches makeup kit.

- Cover Girl lança Kit Makeup Eyes e coleção Color Lipstick.

 - Helena Rubinstein launches shadow with touch of sparkle.

1975 - Max Factor launches ultralucent line waterproof makeup for black skin.

- Elizabeth Arden – launches sparkling shine eye shadow.

- Revlon launches kit makeup eyes slogan: Big eyes, composed by duo shadow and mask of eyelashes.

- Maybelline launches face fresh line and New great shadow.

1976 – Elizabeth Arden launches Lipstick.

– Custom Blends cosmetics launches slick glow for black skin.

- Fashion Fair launches 3rd collection of makeup for black women.

- Avon launches lipstick sparklers – with two colors for the day and two colors for the night.

- Max Factor launches Ultralucent Face Makeup Collection.

1977 - Custom Blends cosmetics launches line Disco Dazzlers, composed of lipstick and nail polish.

- Helena Rubinstein launches light coverage foundation and blush cream.

- Ricilsóie launches l'ombre settle - liquid shadow.

- Rimmel launches line makeup to the face.

1978 - Revlon launches line of lighted lipsticks.

- Revlon launches eye makeup with the slogan: Moon Drop and moon drops super cream lipstick with drops of moon.

- Cover Girl launches liquid blush.

1979 - Ultra Sheen Cosmetics launches makeup Fabulous Face.

 

- Avon launches Fun Collection consists of lip gloss, eyeshadow and lipstick.

LIP GLOSS

LIPSTICK

 

SHADOW

- Chanel launches makeup kit with slohan - Chanel beauty dramatically.

- Max Factor laUNCHES Crème Lipstick

 

CHARACTERISTICS OF MAKEUP

The makeup in the 70's had several characteristics. It had makeup for tanned skin, the makeup for the hippie movement, the makeup for the punk movement, the makeup of everyday life and makeup for disco.

 

BRONZED SKIN

PUNK 

HIPPIE

DAILY MAKEUP

MAKEUP FOR BLACK SKIN

MAKEUP DISCO

                         

LIPSTICK - How to apply lipstick is the same as is done today, skirting around the lip

- BRONZED WOMAN - most gave preference to gloss instead of lipstick, the most used colors were in shades of pink or orange. The night they wore lipstick and lip gloss applied over glow

- PUNK - they wore lipstick and favorite color was red or purple.

- HIPPIE - preferred the gloss and the most used colors were colorless, pink and orange.

- DAY TO DAY - both white women and black women wore lipstick or gloss, and favorite color was pink or mouth color.

- DISC - The lipstick was very strong and the preferred color, regardless of skin color was red.

 

FONDATION - The foundation was the same skin tone, or two shades darker when the skin was tanned. The fundação was used to cover the skin and give the appearance closer to natural as possible.

CONCEALER - was used before the base to correct the imperfections.

BLUSH - During the day the blush was applied in a circular fashion in the apples of the cheeks and pulled with a slight slope toward the temples. At night it was applied to the apples and pulled with greater inclination and linearly, almost forming a rectangle, toward the temples.

- BRONZED WOMAN - the preferred color was bronze shades.

- PUNK - They wore with great intensity and preferred colors were shades of pink and purple.

- HIPPIE - the lighter skin gave preference to light pink and the yellow skinned preferred the bronze shade of blush.

- DAY TO DAY - preferred color by both white and black, was pink, and the intensity varied from light to medium.

- DISCO - were well marked and preferred colors were strong roses. 

 

SHADOW - was the essential item of makeup and were very colorful. Painted eyelids were the big star of makeup in this decade. Used one, two or three colors. The most commonly used combinations was pink with blue, pink with lilac and green with blue. Blue was the color of the decade

The colors during the day were in pastel shades, and the night the colors were more intense. The color of the decade was blue, but there used to be green, pink, purple, white, orange and yellow. The shadows for the evening were scintillating or glitter, which was widely used in the discs. At the bottom of the eyes, they preferred to apply the same shadow applied on the eyelids, instead of eyeliner. The shadows were powdered, liquid, cream pot, creamy rod-shaped or pen.

ILLUMINATORS - were used to realças cheeks or cheekbone during the evening.

EYE PENCIL - When used were the same color shadow applied in pápebra. Punks liked apply strong black pencil around the eye contour.

EYEBROWS - were well designed with tweezers and marked with eyebrow pencil. Relebrando the second half of the 20s

LASHES - the big star was the eyelids, but the masks were also used, but sparingly. Also used up false eyelashes.

 

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