Mary Lyrio


marydauto@yahoo.com.br
marydtlyrio@gmail.com

HOW TO APPLY THE SHADOW IN DIFFERENT TYPES OF EYES

21/12/2015 21:57

 

1 - EYELID FIXED

2 - EYELID MOBILE

3 -CONCAVE

4 - CORNER INTERNAL MOBILE EYELID

5 - UPPER LINE EYELASH

6 - CORNER INTERNAL EYE

7 - BOTTOM LINE EYELASH

8 - EXTERNAL CORNER OF EYELIDS FIXED AND MOBILE.

Before applying the shadow you should use a primer or pencil Jumbo Nyx.

The primer has the following purposes: to facilitate application of the product, providing better fixation and increasing durability.

The pencil jumbo has the same functions of primer and further intensifies the color of the product. In my experience, the jumbo pencil provides longer product life compared to the primer.

For those with an eye on encapsulated format like mine, in which the fixed eyelid covers the entire mobile eyelid, forming a "hood" (hence the name), I advise using jumbo pencil because fixed better shade. It is also necessary to choose a shadow of excellent quality, because when the eye is open eyelids can rub blurring the product.

In the case of powder shadow, if you do not have a lot of skill to apply, I advise using it before passing the concealer, because if you miss or dust seeping beyond the eyelid, can be removed without compromising the makeup.

But if you have experience, you can apply it at the end of makeup. And to ensure that there is no problem applying a reasonable amount of translucent powder over the concealer because the drain shadow will fall on the dust. And in the end it's just remove dust with the brush fan or a very fluffy brush. However, remove any excess powder to avoid compromising the lighting in this area, especially if you are doing flash photography.

Apply with appropriate brush or your fingers. In the case of loose powder or glitter dampen a little brush or your finger.

There are several techniques in the shadow of application: illuminate the corners and the area below the eyebrows, use darker shadows at the outer corners, highlight the concave, pulling eye "kitten" on the outside, wear light shade to highlight, dark shadow to create depth and many others. However each person has specific characteristics of an eye. Then, each of these techniques are better suited to certain types of eyes. Here I will explain about the eyes formats that benefit from specific techniques. To learn what features your eyes, click on the link: EYE, SHAPES AND CHARACTERISTICS

ENCAPSULATED EYES OR HOODED EYES

A -

B -

C -

The purpose of this eye shape is to give the impression that the fixed eyelid is less chubby creating a depth effect. In this type of eye, do not mark the concave to not stress hood effect. Always make the contrast of a light shade with a darker. The fixed eyelid, always give preference to the darkest and the mobile eyelid to lighter shades.

A - In the entire mobile eyelid, I applied the shadow of midtone (yellow). In the fixed eyelid inner corner, I applied the shadow lighter (salmon) diagonally. In the rest of the fixed eyelid, I applied the darker shade (orange), doing a smoky where the shadows were joined, pulling her to the outer corner of the eyebrow.

B - From the outer corner of the bone below the eyebrow to the inner corner of the eye, I applied the lighter shade (green water), forming a concave line or half moon. The inner corner of the eyelid mobile, rising to the fixed eyelid, following the whole contour of the half moon, applied the medium shade (green). Then I came down with this shadow diagonal line until just before the middle of the mobile eyelid. Lastly, I applied a darker shade (red) to the outer corner of the eye, up to find the other shadow, in every point that shadows found themselves, I made a slight smoky.

C - In the fixed eyelid inner corner to the inner corner of the eyes, I applied the illuminating shade (beige) in a diagonal manner. Across mobile and fixed eyelid to the outer corner of the eyebrow, I applied a light shade (yellow). Shortly before the middle of the mobile eyelid, rising diagonally to the fixed eyelid, applied on the yellow shadow. the dark Shadow (black) by pulling it until the end of the eyebrow, linking it with the outer corner of the eye.

SALIENT EYES

A-

B-

C -

Eyes are designed out. These kinds of eyes allow us to play with colors, because the mobile eyelid is very large. But if the goal is to create depth to the eyes, the ideal is to use dark eye shadows. So darken the entire line of Eye concave esfumaçando a bit to let more marked, it will give more depth. Work around the lower lashes with black eyeliner or dark eye shadow, it will help create the depth effect.

A - I used two colors of shadows with strong shades (fuchsia and navy), a shadow with lighter shade (yellow) and an illuminating shade (beige). At the inner corner of the eyelid fixed and in late of the bone below the eyebrow, I applied the illuminating shade. On the line the upper lashes, I applied the fuchsia shade, pulling up just beyond the corner of his eye, making a small dash toward the end of the eyebrow. Then I applied the blue shadow following the previous contour. Lastly, I applied the last shadow on the rest of the mobile eyelid and all fixed eyelid until the end of the eyebrow. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the same shade used in all mobile eyelid.

B- I applied a light shade (gray) at the inner corner of the mobile eyelid and on the outer line of the bone below the eyebrow. Then I applied the dark shadow (black) across mobile and fixed eyelid eyelid (except in the inner corner), pulling out and below the bone below the eyebrow until the end of the eyebrow

C - I applied a light shade in the inner corner of the eyelid mobile, pulling diagonally to the middle bone below the eyebrow. Then I applied a darker shade on both eyelids pulling the end of the eyebrow

EYES DEEP

A - 

B - 

C - 

The goal in this case is to decrease the depth of the eyes.

The main tip is to lighten the look without much mark the concave, because this region is already quite evident in this kind of eye. Use an illuminating Shadow in the inner corners and the bone below the eyebrows. Cover the entire mobile eyelid and fixed with light-colored shadows. At the outer corner, use a shadow a slightly darker tone, and lightly mark the middle of the concave with the same shade.

Another technique is to cover the entire mobile eyelid with a light shade and fixed eyelid with a slightly lighter shade.

To open more eyes, pass in the region of the lower lashes the same shade of color applied on the eyelids.

Avoid shades of very dark or black shades therefore further increase the depth of the eyes.

A - Throughout bone below the eyebrow, I applied the illuminating shade (beige). Across mobile and fixed eyelid until the end of the eyebrow, I applied the lighter shade (yellow). In the middle of the concave line, I did a smoky darker shade (orange), pulling it down to the end of the movable eyelid, overlapping the lighter shade. Then pulled the dark shadow (orange) toward the end of the eyebrow, forming a design similar to the enlarged kitten eye. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the lighter shade.

B - In the entire mobile eyelid, pulling out slightly towards the end of the eyebrow, I applied the dark shadow. The inner corner of the eyelid fixed up a bit above the horizontal half of it, I applied the dark shadow skirting rounded to meet the other end of the shadow. At the top of the fixed eyelid, bypassing all bone below the eyebrow to the outside, I applied the lighter shade. On the line the lower lashes applied, the darker shade.

C - The application was the same as the figure "B", the difereça are in colors and lower lashes where I applied the two shadows.

SEPARATE EYES

A - 

B -

C- 

The goal is to create the illusion that the eyes are closer together. The secret is to use a dark shadow in the inner corners and a clearer at the outer corners.

If using a dark shadow at the outer corners, do not exceed the limits eyelid. Avoid making eye "kitten" because it will print more distant eyes.

If you do the smoky concave, it should be darker in the region close to the inside corners.

A - I applied a dark shadow (brown) at the inner corner of the eyelid mobile and inside, the fixed eyelid. I brought this shadow always on the concave line height, even a little addition to the middle of the mobile eyelid, and finished in a diagonal manner. Then I applied a light shadow (land) making u smoky shadows where the two came together, and pulling it to the outermost corner of the eyelid mobile, without pulling out.On the line the lower lashes, I applied the same light shadow.

B - I applied a darker shadow across mobile eyelid (red) and above applied a lighter shadow (light plum) at the outer corner of the eyelid mobile, pulling it in and fixed eyelid. I did a smoky on the line of the concave. On the line the lower lashes, I applied a black pencil without the smoky because the black already reduces the eye. If I did the smoky, increase the area painted black and the eye diminish greatly.

c - On the line the upper lashes, from the outside in, I applied a darker shade (purple), lifting it from just beyond the middle of the upper eyelashes, Manaíra diagonally toward the inner corner of the eyelid mobile. Then I applied the lighter shade (pink) in the rest of the mobile eyelid, pulling her out.

TOGETHER EYES

A - 

B - 

C - 

The process is opposite to the separate eyes. Here the trick is to illuminate the inner corners. You can use a light shade in the inner corner and a darker shadow on the outer corners. If you want you can make the eye "kitten".

If you do the smoky concave, it should be darker in the region close to the outer corners.

A - I applied the lighter shade (Solomon) across horizontal half of the mobile eyelid and pulled out towards the end of the eyebrow. The rest of the mobile eyelid, I applied a darker shade (orange) and pulled up to find the end of another shadow. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the lighter shade in the inner corner and the darkest shadow on the rest of the line.

B - I applied three light shades (blue, yellow and pink). The mobile eyelid (blue and yellow), I did the same procedure in Figure "A". The third shadow, applied in the middle of the concave line and pulled up toward the end of the eyebrow, joining with the end of the other.

C - First, I did a little eye "kitten". After I applied two clear shadows (blue and pink) and a shadow slightly darker (navy). The process was very similar to previous. In the mobile eyelid, instead of using dual tone shades, three shades I applied. On the line the lower lashes, I applied the lighter shade.

- EYES ASIAN

B -

C- 

In this case, the surface of the eyelid is flat and does not usually have creases or folds. Therefore, the goal is to create concave illusion defined and larger eyes. And the trick to this is to play with light and shadow. Brighten the corners of the eyes with white shadow and apply white pencil on the waterline of the lower lashes.

Use light shadows to increase your eyes more. To create the illusion of concave mark, with a shade of dark shade, where would have the line of côcavo. Then make a smoky from the outside to the middle. Apply the same shadow used on the eyelid on the line the lower lashes, will open more eyes.

A - I applied the midtone shade (yellow) from the middle of the upper eyelashes line up at a slant, pulling her out on diração the end of the eyebrow. Then I applied a darker shade (orange) in the continuity of the upper eyelashes line until just before the inside corner of the mobile eyelid. Then I pulled this shadow at a slant to the outside, toward the end of the eyebrow, joining with the previous shadow. Lastly, I pulled a lighter shade of the inner corner of eye to it join with the other, at the end of the eyebrow. I made a contour with the medium shadow (yellow) at the inner corner of the upper eyelashes, passing through the inner corner of the eye halfway line the lower lashes. In the rest of the line, I used the darker shadow.

B - The technique was the same used in the "C" figure of the eye together.

C - Technical eyelids was similar to the "A" figure. And in line the lower lashes, I applied a shadow.

 

ESCOLHA DA COR

The eye is the best space face for using colors. One can use one, two or three, more than this may be exaggerated. However it is necessary to know how to combine colors in harmony, and the best way to understand how to combine colors is through the color wheel. In order to understand all combinations click here: COLORS AND MAKEUP

Avoid combining the shadow color in eye color because the color of the iris not highlight. Some examples:

GREEN EYES:

COMBINATIONS INADEQUATE

COMBINATIONS APPROPRIATE

 

BLUE EYES:

COMBINATIONS INADEQUATE

COMBINATIONS APPROPRIATE

 

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