Mary Lyrio


marydauto@yahoo.com.br
marydtlyrio@gmail.com

MAKEUP OF HISTORY: OLD EGYPT THE 19th CENTURY

01/08/2015 16:01

                                                          

EGYPTIAN 4000 A.C.

 

 

  

unguent                                                                               malachite                         

   

ANCIENT EGYPT CONTAINER KOHL A.C.         OCHRE RED

 

ROMANS 1 DC

The Roman used the chalk white Lead based to lighten the skin. To color the cheeks, they used red chalk, Alkanet Tinctoria (red dye plant) Tyrian red (purple dye produced by a species of sea snails). And red ocher on their lips. Kohl also used to outline the eyes.

        CHALK                                                               ALKANET                                            TYRIAN 

 

MIDDLE AGES - CENTURY V THE CENTURY XV

At that time there were two periods for the art of coloring the face.

CENTURY V TO X

During this period, the use of cosmetics to color the face was frowned upon by the Church leaders, is considered a demonic practice. The image of the ideal woman was an almost canonical image, where the skin was totally clean and natural.

CENTURY XI TO V CENTURY BEGINNING

In this period, since there is a big change. Began arriving several products coming from the east. The very white skin with rosy cheeks was a symbol of wealth. If the skin was tanned meant that the person was poor and worked in the fields exposed to the sun.

At this time, a new substance made of lead and carbon hydroxide, known as Venetian ceruse, which was a type of powder used to make white skin. The chalk was still in use. In addition, they pressed well cheeks to bleed them, leaving the red spot and the rest of the pale face. At this time, the red chalk was used to color the cheeks was applied almost forming a triangle. Red ocher was still applied on the lips.

             CERUSE

 

REIGN QUEEN ELIZABETH I -1533 A 1603

At this time, all women wanted to follow the pattern of Beauty Queen Elizabeth was the overly white skin and rosy cheeks. In addition to the social question, the more white skin was the richest person seem, the fact that it took the queen overdo the ceruse, and other noblewomen a copy, was that at this time there were several diseases, including smallpox. The queen, still young, contracted the disease and her skin was left with deep scars. So, in order to hide the scars she exaggerated in ceruse powder, applied in several layers on the face and neck. However the ceruse was toxic and the exaggerated and prolonged use caused new skin lesions and led women to use it every time in larger quantities to hide skin problems.

Around the year 1635, the ceruse was classified as poison and began to no longer be used.

Raw eggwhite was used as a waterproofing for the skin and also helped to hide wrinkles. It was a kind of primer of antiquity.

The new substance of this era were cochineal (carmine color dye) that was used on the cheeks and lips, and belladonna, which is a plant and the juice of the fruit was used in the eye to let them bright and dilate the pupil which was another characteristic of this era.  

                                cochonilha

 

CENTURY  XVIII

In the eighteenth century, fashion was determined cut skin Versalles. And the makeup was heavily used in France not only by women but also by men. One of the women that determined the standards of that time was Marie Antoinette. Just as women in the previous period, the white skin and reddish cheeks was a feature. as can be seen in the images above, the first is a painting of Marie Antoinette exposed at the Chateau de Versailles, I could closely observe when I visited. And the second is a woman of the time. At that time I did not find reports of any new substance.

 

VICTORIAN ERA - 1837 1901

The Victorian era lasted from 1837 until the death of the monarch, Queen Victoria in 1901. The Victorian era coincided with the Belle Epoque and America's Gilded Age. Strong makeup was seen as promiscuous and bold. For this reason, make-up was only used by actresses and prostitutes. It was considered pretty well subtle makeup.   

                      

 Gilbson  Girl                                                                               Camille Clifford

The feminine image more widespread in the late Victorian era was the Gibson Girl who was the embodiment of a feminine ideal portrayed by illustrator Charles Dana Gibson over a period from the late nineteenth century to the early twentieth century.

Camille Clifford was named the Gibson girl par excellence. She was an actress of theater and in 1900 won a magazine contest that was sponsored by illustrator.

The white skin was still extremely in vogue. Lemon juice and vinegar juice were applied to the skin or consumed to clear it.

At this time, there were already several perfumeries, as Houbigant (1775), Rimmel (1834), Bourjois (1863), Richard Hudnut (1888) who were shops selling various kinds of cosmetics. And cosmetic most widely used at the time were the treatment creams. However women did not want to admit they needed to treat the skin, it was important to sell the image that the skin was healthy and beautiful naturally.

 

RELATED TEXTS:

HISTORY OF MAQUIAGEMM 20th CENTURY: THE ERA Edwardian A DECADE 30 - VINTAGE MAKEUP 20th CENTURY: THE ERA EDWARDIAN THE DECADE 30