Mary Lyrio


marydauto@yahoo.com.br
marydtlyrio@gmail.com

THE HISTORY OF NUDE FASHION

14/10/2016 10:09

 

INTRODUCTION:

After posting "defining what is natural makeup, neutral and colorful," he surprised me the good reception of the text, and especially stimuli readers for the realization of a wish expressed: write about the trend "nude" in the world fashion.

Develop a post on this subject seemed to me relevant and consistent with the purpose of Blog. After all, the nude term is ubiquitous in the current scenario of makeup. And the search for information on this phenomenon soon revealed a first hypothesis: the nude makeup would be one of the echoes of an aesthetic movement designed by fashion designers, which has spread not only by the makeup as well as other visual arts, affecting even some segments the consumer goods market.

However, the difficulty to fulfill the task proved to be directly proportional to the importance of the topic. And both (difficulty and relevance) grew as I acquired more awareness about the investigated object.

In addition to my personal limitations (inexperienced in fashion theme and only providing the internet as a research source), also performed as a factor to overcome the shortage of texts on the abstract aspects of the creative process of this aesthetic and almost no analysis on its other formal elements beyond color.

So basically, time and reflection were the few resources available and exhausted, in a personal and precarious attempt to listen, under so many layers of seedlings colors, the sounds of the creation of this important fashion event that remains alive and is renewed through new millennium.

 

COLOR

When Christian Louboutin recently felt the need to make the following public statement: "nude is not a color it'sa concept" very synthetic and expressive way, it has highlighted the problematic issue of the current reductionist interpretation of the term in the nude fashion context.

In the media, in fact, nude term is visually presented or described as a fashion trend whose main element identifier and the color signifier is manifesting itself in the form of a specific hue or through a certain range of colors.

In this first chapter, the goal is to present, briefly, the colors most often associated with nude fashion, and try to reproduce the most common excuses used to justify its use.

 

ACROMATIC OR NEUTRAL

One of the meanings of neutral colors is the absence of hue, achromatic color, restricted to a gradation from white to black, between infinite intermediate shades of gray (value scale). In a broader sense, beyond pure achromatic colors, some colors with low saturation are also considered neutral colors or more appropriately almost neutral.

When I took knowledge of the existence of nude fashion, by not specialized media and diffusely, in Brazil, years ago, were the neutral colors that personified the trend. Chicness and elegance were propagated their brands, combined with the gift of harmony with any color. Still, if the option was the monochrome, you win the bonus minimalist, and in the end gave up to deconstruct everything.

With the research for this post, I found the fact that there is a stable opinion current for which the nude translates through neutral colors which harmonize with other colors is lifted up, and in some of its manifestations (darker shades and monochrome), incorporates values supposedly assigned to another aesthetic movement, minimalism.

 

PALE OR PASTEL COLORS

A color group with the hue information of each element still set, although desaturated with white, is positioned between the neutral colors and the primary or spectral, often also be identified as a legitimate expression of the nude.

In this sense, a color palette, pastel color is known and used for many years in various areas. As a "known color", acquired throughout history many different symbolic values.

For example, spring, childhood, gender duality, optimism, innocence, festivity and joy are just some of the realities that have been, are, or will be again represented by pastel colors.

In some fashion-themed texts, I noticed a frequent association between sensory stimuli and pastel colors: mute, soft, sweet. In the same sense, a contrast between the colors is very common problem: the pastel colors are those whispering as the spectral colors scream. (Apollonian aesthetic impulse vs. Dionysian?)

Among those who point to the pastel color as a game piece nude, the arguments are similar to those used for neutral colors, with no significant differences (easy to match with other colors, elegance, sophistication etc).

 

NUDE COLOR

Kenneth Clark

Kenneth Clark, art historian, explained how the word "nude" was introduced in the English language: 

"The Inglês language, with its elaborate generosity, Distinguishes between the naked and the nude. To be naked is to be deprived of our clothes, and the word Implies some of the embarrassment most of us feel in que condition. The word "nude," on the other hand, carries, in educated usage in uncomfortable overtone. The vague image it projects into the mind is not of a huddled and defenseless body, but of a balanced, prosperous, and confident body: the body re-formed. In fact, the word was forced into our vocabulary by critics of the early eighteenth century to persuade the artless islanders [of the UK] que, in countries where painting and sculpture Were Practiced and valued As They shouldnt be, the naked human body was the central subject of art. "

Using the same argument of Lord Clark, perhaps this "generosity elaborate" not expressed when later added many other realities to the list of meanings of the word "nude". In addition to its already complex initial mission, shared with the term naked, also came to represent a color demonstration. According to the interpretation of some dictionaries online English language until the middle of this decade, that color was a light beige or skin color of a white person.

When and what the circumstances of the early use of the term as synonymous with nude color, dictionaries do not explain and it was not possible to find out precisely. However, these same dictionaries indicate that, since the seventeenth century, there were already in the English language a specific expression to represent the color that resemble the skin of a white person. This expression is "flesh color", although flesh, apparently not to be confused with skin.

These facts, for example, found no exact match in Brazil. Here, the equivalent of nude term "naked / nude" has no chromatic meaning and the English word came to be used only in the XXI century, for fashionistas, makeup artists, colorists, photographers, costume designers, and finally, among adolescents, meaning between the latter sending erotic photos by computer ( "sends nudes! = send nudes!").

"cor de carne"

The translation into Portuguese of "flesh color" is "cor de carne". However, these expressions represent different colors demonstrations. In Brazil, a color derived from red, desaturated, but still maintaining characteristics of the primary color.

Still in Brazil, a long time, we use the expression "cor de carne = skin color" to designate a beige type color, ranging from light to medium shade, especially in the context of underwear. The skin color was not a very positive aesthetic appeal, was a color seen predominantly as functional. It was popularly known for supposedly lessen the effect of transparency, not allowing the underwear becomes visible through clothing. As your stemmed demand this functional feature, the pieces of that color were made without much aesthetic concern and often of poor quality, which fed a certain sanction the color that was associated with these parts and the context of ordinary use and little sexy . To date, there are many public statements from men claiming such underware color negatively affects your libido.

When Crayolan, in the 60s, during the campaign for civil rights for black Americans, decided to free enterprise change the name that designates the color of one of its products, replacing flesh color in peach. He gave visibility to the discussions on the possible relationships between language, colors, consumer market and racism in American society.

On that same subject, at the end of the first decade since the twenty-first century, many articles on the Internet began to interpret and question the nude fashion on the grounds that such action the fashion industry contained elements that reinforced racist values ​​and sought the racial equality by explicitly promote "white privilege".

Overall, such criticisms had as its object:

1 - the use of the word nude before his exclusive meaning, historically forged by racist values ​​present in American society;

2 - the design of the trend, whose poor theoretical formulation, would not even be able to disguise their real motivation, elation and glamourization skin color of white people;

3 - lack of representativeness, lack of black models personifying and visually translating the trend;

4 - the unavailability of products in skin colors of non-white people, preventing them from having access to a supposed effect of merger between skin and clothing, which, at a given time, has to be identified and desired as maximum representation nude.

 With the controversy, Pantone it had in its color catalog, a light beige named nude, cast in 2012, after 03 years of research, the Pantone Skin Tone Guide, a standards guide with over a hundred color tone human skin, to the artists and industrial coloring processes, establishing a bridge between the fashion world, with its nude trend, and the general market of industrial consumer goods.

Without the need for investment and research, and with the fall of the dyeing costs of this color group, there was an expansion of nude inside and especially outside the fashion world, where new entrepreneurs also began to claim the title of pioneers of diversity .

As you can see, there was this scenario a new meaning to the term Chromatic nude, which now represent the entire range of colors of human skin. In this sense, due to internet campaigns, dictionaries have already altered the entries for the nude and flesh color.

Before long, the nude trend overcame the suspicion of racism to bear the symbol of status of diversity, which is already being adequately capitalized by the fashion industry, whose only tribute to pay is to accept that the full meaning of his art remains somewhat obfuscated so many chromatic issues.

 

CONCLUSION

For all the information I could get, the artistic conception of the nude fashion never limited its color expression to a single hue. Although there have been times when a particular color or a group of these has presented a more prominent.

In this sense, I dare point a factor that I consider to have had great influence on the colors used by the fashion nude. This factor is the idea or neutral value.

I believe that in the 90s, the nude look has adapted some of the aesthetic guidelines that emerged as a counterpoint to the fashion features of the 80s In the colors, the monochrome and black as striking minimalism were assimilated mainly in the form of almost neutral colors. The idea of ​​neutrality, then, is incorporated and gains emphasis on the role of the choice of colors in the nude trend.

Both harmonization as the symbolic color control, neutrality idea has proved stable and influential in the nude trend. Fact, including, shown widely described in the texts on the subject.

Less prominently in the texts, but perhaps more important is the idea of ​​the use of color as one of the neutralizing elements or adjust the degree of sexualization look. It's like element able to interfere with this central point of the artistic creation of the nude look that the color acquires its greatest importance.

 

To be continued ...