Continuing the series, prerequisites for drawing up a perfect makeup, I will talk about two skin characteristics, tone and undertone, which I think are very important in makeup, because they are important in determining the colors of the products that best harmonize with the color of your skin. Click on the link: SERIES OF PREREQUISITE FOR MAKE UP PERFECT
In this post, our focus will be the analysis of tone and skin undertone, for the specific purpose of choosing the correct basis.
Skin color is white, brown or black. Skin pigmentation is due to the activity of melanocytes, which are the cells responsible for producing melanin, the pigment that gives color to the skin. When the melanin production is very low, the color is too light. As melanin production increases, the skin becomes darker. In addition to providing pigmentation to the skin, melanin also protects from sunlight. The fact that the activity of melanocytes increase when the skin is exposed to sunlight helps the mechanism of natural protection. The very white skinned people suffer more from the action of sunlight, leaving the skin red (fire), because of the low amount of melanin. Already darker skinned people, when exposed to the sun, suffer less from the action of sunlight, leaving the golden skin (tanned).
It is the variation in light shades to darker tonaldade the skin may have. White skin, brown skin or black skin, depending on the amount of melanin produced feature a tonal variation on the color itself. As an example, the skin can be very white, white and medium white.
VERY WHITE WHITE MEDIUM WHITE
It is the color that is below the epidermis and has no necessary relationship to the ethnicity of the person. The undertone can be pink, neutral or yellow.
Many people have difficulty in determining the undertone of your skin because there are some theories related to the color wheel or seasonal color theory to classify the skin in hot or cold depending on the undertone she has. Great confusion is because there is no standardization of what is hot or cold, for some pink and yellow are hot or cold depending on the hue put up, others say the rose is cold and yellow is warm, and there are those that in addition to declaring the pink and yellow are warm, qualify the green and blue as cold undertones colors. However it is known that there are people with bluish or greenish undertone.
BEIGE UNDERTONE PINK UNDESTONE YELLOW UNDERTONE
WHAT IS THE FOUNDATION UNDERTONE MUST HAVE?
Answer: the exact undertone of your skin.
The function of the foundation is to provide uniform coverage the skin, leaving it with a more natural look possible, this way the foundation has to be of the same undertone of the skin.
Some people believe that fndação should be used to neutralize the undertone of the skin, that is, if the skin is pink and uses a yellowish undertone would be based on the neutral. But this is a big mistake because the base only provides coverage. If you use it with tone and inadequate undertone to your skin that will be shown. Who has the role of correcting the color and neutralizing, for example, the purple region below the eye, is the concealer, in which case it should be using yellow, respecting the rules of complementary colors.
The only way to extend the function of the foundation, in addition to the basic coverage, without prejudice to the final outcome, it is vary slightly tonal scale. Since the undercurrentas a general rule should not be changed.
HOW TO IDENTIFY THE SKIN UNDESTONE
The foundation's undertone is the undertone of your skin and the undertone of your skin is the undertone of the foundation.
That is, the undertone of the color of the skin and the foundation should merge perfectly.
More important than getting to name its undertone (or fanatically study a methodology to identify it) is to test the foundation on your face and work out the vision.
And watching your skin and foundations that you are testing the same hue but different undertones, you will begin to distinguish the colors undertone: pink, yellow and neutral.
Thus, when choosing the undertone of the foundation, what matters is to know (see) if the undertone of the skin is pink, yellow or neutral and not if the skin is hot or cold, wintry or summery, etc.
The best way to dentificar is running out of makeup in the mirror, preferably with natural light and observe what color you see beneath the epidermis. People with pink undertone, seem to have a transparent or thinner skin, it is possible to observe a pink hue beneath the skin, but should not be confused with this shade spots on the skin. Since people with sallow skin, the skin tends to uniform throughout a color, a type of golden yellow and when the epidermis has beige tint pulling, between pink and yellow, undercurrent is neutral.
THE TOWER OF BABEL
Stylists, makeup artists, hairdressers, colors scholars and big companies do not understand when it comes to sort colors.
Among the scholars of color, it is widely accepted the division of the circle of colors between warm and cold. However, there is still much controversy about which color should occupy the top of the scale between the warm colors.
MAC cosmetics did not hesitate to consider the pink color of the hottest warm as it is closer to red and yellow color among the coldest warm colors. Therefore, the more pink skin undertone colors is warm (W or NW), as the skin nearest yellow undertone is cold (C or NC), while the two colors are warm.
Other companies, follow the theorists who consider the color yellow / orange color of the hottest hot. So for these brands, those with yellow undertone is warm skin, and who has red or pink undertone is cool skin, despite the two colors are warm.
In parallel to the above classifications, there are theories widely used in the fashion universe, which, based on the colors, perform analogies between people and natural phenomena. In many of these analyzes, the tone and the skin undertone are the most relevant to the classification, followed by hair and eyes. Outstanding among these theories because they are the most numerous, connecting people to the seasons and also assess the skin in cold or warm by its color.
Many of these theories adopt a different color wheel of traditional color wheel of Newton, which ends up generating a lot of confusion for the novice player in the subject.
These seasonal color theories have several variants and they are divergent.
In one of these currents yellow, orange and red make up the semi-circle of warm colors, and people with yellow undertones classified summer (summer) and with orange undertones named spring (spring).
Also according to this interpretation, the green, blue, purple and pink colors are cold, so people with bluish undertones are autumnal (fall) and those with pink undertones are cool season (winter), as seen in the illustration below.
In a second design of the seasonal theory, pink, blue and green are cool colors, and people with pink undertones can be cool season (darker shades) or summer (lighter shades).
The red, orange and yellow would be warm colors and those with yellow undertones can be spring (lighter shades) or autumn (darker shades), as shown chart.
In terms of seasonal color theories, the differences are even greater than indicated here. But that, by itself, does not disqualify the interesting studies that are done under these theories that seek to analyze the more general pattern of the color of a person.
Despite the interesting questions that these and other studies present for makeup, I believe, to choose the correct undertone effect of the base, the less is more. And the big secret is to rely more on what you see and less on what you understand.