Mary Lyrio


marydauto@yahoo.com.br
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VINTAGE MAKEUP CENTURY 20th- PART II - the 40s, 50s and 60s

12/08/2015 15:41

        RECREATING THE DECADES         

                                                    OF 40, 50 AND 60.

 

40 DECADE

The 40s was marked by World War II.

Like most of the men went to war, there were manpower shortages to take up jobs in factories and shipyards. Before long, the government realize that women were the only way to produce equipment and materials necessary to maintain the war effort. It was the first time that middle-class women would work out of their homes, since poor women have always worked. Some women were enchanted to enter the workforce, they saw this as the first chance to achieve economic independence.

 

Even having to take on traditionally male jobs, they did not have masculine appearance and makeup allowed them to represent this new power, while remaining feminine.

The right to be beautiful was very propagated by cosmetic companies and used as a tool to promote patriotism and encourage women to become more active in the war effort.

Known Hollywood stars of the time as Ava Gardner, Ingrid Bergman, Gene Tierney, Joan Fontaine, Lana Turner, Rita Hayworth and Carmen Miranda, inspired many women.

Ava Gardner                                                         Carmem Miranda    

Ingrid Bergman                                               Joan Fontaine   

Lana Turner                                                    Rita Hayworth     

How many women were working for the first time in factories and shipyards, government agencies began shooting training videos for men to learn how to work with women, and videos for women to learn to stay safe at work.

   One of these training videos was made by actress Veronica Lake, as seen in this photo, taken from the publication of Life magazine of March 8, 1943.

Rosie the Riveter

It is a cultural icon of the United States, representing the American women who worked in factories and shipyards during World War II.

The term "Rosie the Riveter" was first used in 1942, in a song of the same name written by Redd Evans and John Jacob Loeb. Recorded by various artists and became a national hit.

"(...) All the day long whether rain or shine

She’s a part of the assembly line

She’s making history, 

working for victory

Rosie the Riveter

Keeps a sharp lookout for sabotage

Sitting up there on the fuselage

That little frail can do more than a 

male will do

Rosie the Riveter.

Rosie’s got a boyfriend, Charlie

Charlie, he’s a Marine

Rosie is protecting Charlie

Working overtime on the 

riveting machine

When they gave her a production “E”

She was as proud as a girl could be

There’s something true about

Red, white, and blue about

Rosie the Riveter (...)"

To listen to the original version click on the link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=55NCElsbjeQ

 

Pin-up

Another term often used at that time. The pin-up were mostly models and actresses who landed with more sexy outfits showing subtly lingerie. Such photos often appeared in calendar style poster (in English, poster pin-up =). Betty Grable, an actress and dancer, was one of the most popular among the first "pin-ups". One of his posters became ubiquitous in the lockers of American soldiers during World War II.  

Betty Grable

 

In some countries, mainly in Europe, cosmetics began to have its limited production due to war rationing.

Furthermore, because of shortage of raw materials, cosmetics prices were very high. For some women, it remained to be creative and produce homemade makeup. Shoe paste was used as a mask for eyelashes and eyebrows; beetroot juice was used on the lips and cheeks; and petals of roses soaked in alcohol were also used on the cheeks.

In the early 40s, the production of cosmetics in the US was frozen for a few months. But the women's cry was so great that cosmetics were classified as important for the war, as well as tobacco was important for men.

 During the war years, the major cosmetic brands have continued with the production, even if reduced in some countries. When some of them had to halt production during the worst period of the war, they still continued to advertise the products.

Several major cosmetic brands like Estee Lauder (1946), Wella (1946), and Parfums Christian Dior (1947) were founded during the forties,

Another item widely used by women who also was missing were the nylon stockings, as the material needed to make items such as military networks and parachute. Therefore, women began to paint in his legs the design of the seams of the half to give the illusion that they were using.

           

Appeared the liquid silk stockings 

 

Department store anuciando liquid stockings

 

In Paris. during the war years, the fashion houses like Chanel and others closed their doors by the shortage of raw material.

With the onset of war and strict rationing of fabric, dresses in the 40s have become shorter, and just below the knee. It was initiated military minimalist style. They came the shoulder pads, which left the square shoulders. Sleeves were often swollen with some folds at the top, and extended to just below the elbow. The neckline of the 40s come in a variety of cuts. They could be square, keyhole, crimping, or V-shape  

 

Hats gradually began to disappear, being replaced by scarves.

The fashion in the years following World War II is characterized by the resurgence of haute couture after the austerity of the war years. Square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by soft femininity with Christian Dior "New Look silhouette", with its longer skirts and tight waists and rounded shoulders.

New look Dior

The victory roll hairstyle was very popular in the 40s. The name refers to a moving downward spiral that made the downed plane

Victory roll hairstyle

 

LAUNCHES

1941 - Elizabeth Arden launches Montezuma lipstick red, the red of victory.

 - Dorothy Gray - launches red lipstick.

 - - Tangee launches Red-Red Lipistick   

- Du Barry launches line red badge

 - Max Factor launches Lipistick color fort, red lipstick. 

1942 - Max Factor - launches Tru-color lipistick collection.

1943 - Maybelline launches line for olkos with the slogan "If you use your lipistick, you must use Also maybelline". - Made up of solid mask in black, brown and blue;, mask cream in black and brown colors; sombre in blue, green and violet and black pencil and marro eye.

1945 - Helena Rubinstein - launches makeup guide brunette and blondes - brown makeup guide and blondes.

 

1946 - Helena Rubinstein's launches Heavenly Glow makeup and Pan stick - foundation in stick form.

- Yardley launches English Complexion Cream, Night Cream coposto cream Skin Cleansing Cream and milk-based cream, in new packaging.

1947 - Bourjois lança Rouge Rosette Brune e Rouge Coral.

 - Elizabeth Arden Elizabeth Arden launches Pat-A-Kake - creamy compacted foundation.

- Helena Rubinstein launches Makeup-stick, creamy foundation stick.

 

CHARACTERISTICS OF MAKEUP

   Lips - are the most prominent part of the 40's lipstick was designed to keep women with high esteem during the war. Red was the color of patriotism symbol. How to apply valued the natural contour of the lips, slightly bulkier at the top, remembering the full lips of the previous decade. The most popular color is red, including bright light red, cherry red, pink red and orange red.

Foundation - was skin tone or darker tone.

Face powder - was used coinciding with the color of the skin to help secure the base or to give a rosy glow.

Rouge - was applied at the center of apples and pulled toward the temples.

Eyebrows - have been thoroughly cleaned, well-defined arches and accented by using a dark brown pencil. The practice of plucking eyebrows so fashionable in the past decade has weakened.

Eye shadows varied in colors gray and brown.

Eyelashes - only existed maáscara paste or cream and it was applied marcaano well eyelashes

Eyeliner - was applied to the contour of the lower lashes and had in black and brown.

 
 

50 DECADE

The 50s was a time of growth and prosperity. The end of rationing paved the way for new products. And consumers have more money to spend.

The rock-in-roll occupied the center of the stage, and big names like Fats Domino, Little Richard and Elvis Presley quickly rose to fame.

Television broadcasts had returned to the UK after a total suspension during World War II. In the early 50s most of the country already had TV signal, thanks to the post-war effort and the transmission of the coronation of Queen Elizabeth in 1953,

In the United States, millions of families already had a TV set. In Brazil, were the first devices emerging in the richest families.

At that time television was still in black and white but in the cinema had films in color.

Quickly, watching TV has become a popular pastime for all families and variety shows brought new ideas and influence to the masses.

Movie stars as Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe, Doris Day, Brigitte Bardot, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Gina Lollombrigida and Natalie Wood. who made the famous film Youth erring in 1955, caused great influence on women.

 

Audrey Hepburn                                                Marilyn Monroe   

  Doris Day                                                                Natalie Wood

Gina Lollombrigida                                                       Elizabeth Taylor  

   Grace Kelly                                                     Brigitte Bardot   

SOPHIA LOREN

 

Fashion hairstyles for men and women was influenced by Hollywood stars and artists of the music of the time. Elvis Presley and James Dean were responsible for the tuft male high style. Another variation of this style was the "cut duck butt", which had been developed in the late 40s by Joe Hairstylists Cerello

Elvis, topete alto                                                      James Dean

 

                      Cut duck butt

In the 50s, there were various models of hairstyles for women. The size ranged from short to medium. One of the great Hairstylists the time was the French Alexandre, known in Hollywood as Alexandre de Paris. He created the hairstyle artichoke used by Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taiyor., Who was the chin-length hair and cute curls. Another style, very used was the "elfin cut" or Italian court, which was very short and curly hair, much used by Italian actress Gina Lollombrígida. In the middle of the decade, the widely used style was the "pixie cut" that was one tomboy style cut very used by actress Audrey Hepburn. For the ladies with a little more age the most used style was cut short fringe, popularized by the 1st US Lady, Mamie Eisenhower. And at the end of the decade, Alexandre de Paris created cutting hive, which had its peak in the next decade and was widely used by Brigitti Bardot. (Amy Winehouse souvenirs)

For teens fashion was the high ponytail, tied with scarves or satin ribbon.

Ponytail hairstyle Brigitte Bardot 

Hairstyle artichoke, Elizabeth Taylor

Elf cut Gina lollobrigida

Pixie cut. Audrey Hepburn

Short fringe cut, Mamie Eisenhower

    The garments of women in the 50 varied widely, the "New Look", coined by Christian Dior in the late 40's dresses rotated sheathed at the time of calf and belt marking the waist. The fabric was flat, printed in poá or floral. Necklines with ornaments also came into vogue.

The cosmetic companies have begun to realize this new audience and new products were manufactured as creams for acne treatments and facials. And the makeup has also become more affordable.

Magazine editors have also realized this and launched public specialized publications in this segment.

That was the time when women were charged more to stay beautiful and clean, both at home doing their chores, and outside the home.

The 50s was the golden era of makeup products. New products have come up with a color palette much more diverse than previous decades.

Max Factor, Jr., was still the market leader, but new brands have emerged as Westmore, Revlon, Coty and Yardley.

The luxury cosmetics market led by fierce opponents Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden has grown

In 1950 the foundation began to have lighter and less dense consistency. They began to emerge the liquid bases.

One of the products most launched by several companies at this time was lipstick and pink and red colors were the most popular.

 

LAUNCHES

1950 - Helena Rubinstein launches Silken Lipistick - lipstick with silk powder.

- Max Factor launches line Cleansing for women.

- Revlon - Launches Touch-and-Glow liquid makeup - liquid foundation golden glow in 7 shades

- Westmore Family Hollywood launches makeup line, with 3 products,

1951 - Ester Lauder launches a limited collection of lipstick and rouge cream called madmen = Mad Men.

  

-  Max Factor lança: Signature toiletry for men, a linha de produtos de higiene masculina,

- Revlon launches Indelible-Cream Lipstick, permanent creamy lipstick red.

1952 - Max Factor launches Color Fast lipstick- quick lip color in various shades.

- Westmore Family launches liquid makeup and lipstick

1953 - Max Factor launches: Cream Puff - First foundation and powder in one product in 7 colors and Invisible Foundation

- Helena Rubinstein launches STAY-LONG - with lipstick slogan of longer duration in the world.

1954 - Max Factor launches erace -first commercial concealer in 4 colors (Medium, Deep Natural, Tan and Deep Tan).

- Westmore Family launches Hollywood Close-up perfection - complexion beauty, perfect skin, composed of liquid makeup (liquid foundation), powder makeup cream (foundation and powder) and lipstick.

- Coty launches - Coty Air Spun powder - fine loose powder that promises to hide fine lines and blemishes.

1955 - Max Factor launches HI FU makeup, liquid makeup for the evening Trusted tones the skin tone. It was like a liquid foundation. And HI Fi lipstick in two shades, red and fashion pink fashion.

- Elizabeth Arden launches Pure Red Lipstick in shade.

        

- Yardley launches lipstick refill, compact and dust finisher.

- Eylury launches case with a pair of false eyelashes and glue.

1956 - Helena Rubinstein launches waterproof lipstick

1957 - Coty launches lipstick 24hrs

- Max Factor and Helena Rubinstein launched the mask tube lashes and brush in brown and black colors.

- Elizabeth Arden launches collections lipstick, rouge and enamel Pink Violet and Pink Arden

1959 - Max Factor launches lipstick collection Hi society

 
 

CHARACTERISTICS OF MAKEUP

Lips - lipstick was on the rise and were released several models in intense colors. The lipstick was applied following the contour of the lips. The most used colors were red and pink.

Lip Pencil - was used to define the outline of the lips and, when they did not have the symmetrical outline, this correction was made with the pencil.

Foundation - The woman of 50 years had the option of using the base and / or face powder.

Clearer and more natural tones were available. The consistency was liquid, cream or compact.

Concealer - For the first time women were using concealer, was once a film makeup, to fix blemishes and imperfections. It was shaped bat with consistency a little dense. Typically it was applied before the base and / or powder.

 Rouge - How to apply was usually apples pulling toward her temples. The most popular color was light pink.

Women with rounder face shapes began to make the facial contour with rouge, applying it on the line below the cheekbone and temples.

Shadows - women began to match the shade with the dress color and the palette of shadows won several pastel shades. The shadow was applied across mobile eyelid.

In the evening shadows were the brightest.

Mask of eyelashes - masks emerged with new technology and how to apply was easier.

Eyelashes - were well defined.

Eyebrows - in the early, eyebrows were dark and strong, with pencil being used to fill and define the shape. The thickness varied from medium to coarse, but still arc-shaped.

 

 

60 DECADE

The 60's, as well as the decades of 10 and 40, was marked by several events that have become historical.

In 1961, the former Soviet Union made the first launch of a manned spacecraft. In 1962, Brazil is champion of soccer world cup in Chile, and of course it was very important !!! In 1963, US President John Kennedy was assassinated. In 1968, it takes place the revolt of students in Paris, with the slogan: "Est interdit d'interdire". And in 1969 the first man landed on the moon.

  REVOLT OF STUDENTS, OF 68

In the context of such diverse events, but equally important, the "baby boom generation" (name given to babies born in Britain, France and the USA in 1946) now young, begin to influence the culture and fashion of the decade.

The voice of youth is clearly noticeable in the lyrics of the British band "The Beatles".

At this time, two youth movements had great influence on people's behavior: The Mods that began in 1960 in Britain and spread to varying degrees, to other countries; and Hippies that began in the US in the mid-60s, and spreads around the world.

In the 60s, Europe, especially London and Paris takes its role as radiating center of fashion and behavior, which in recent decades was being played by Hollywood.

However, the actress Brigitte Bardot, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor, which premiered this decade Cleopatra film, very influenced fashion and behavior.

Brigitte Bardot                                                                   sophia loren        

The former actress Gracy Kelly, this time already Princess of Monaco, also influenced the fashion and behavior of the time.

The specialized publications of the time, also very influenced in fashion and makeup.

Women's fashion saw the emergence of mini skirts and straight and short dresses.

There were various hairstyles in the 60s As the beehive style beginning of the decade, very used by actress Brigitti Bardot, and very short style popularized by Twiggy (first big top model of the world) and actress Mia Farr. The pillbox hat was fashionable, and worn by Jacqueline Kennedy.

  

  Brigitti Bardot                                                          Twiggy   

 The pillbox hat, Jacqueline Kennedy

Male fashion Mods incorporated a dose of sophistication, which included tailored suits with narrow lapels, skinny ties, collar scroll button, woolen jackets or cashmere.

Many of female mods incorporated an androgen style with short haircuts, men's trousers or shirts, flat shoes and little makeup.

The fashion of the hippy clothing gained momentum after the summer of 67, called "Summer of Love". The style characterized long skirts, loose gowns with esoteric prints or embroidery, jeans bell mouth, loose knit tops, necklaces and bracelets with native reasons Americans and Africans. Sandal was the footwear of choice for men and women. Hair loose long been the most widely used.

As in the previous decade, the cosmetics company continued to grow.

Max Factor had been at the forefront of innovation makeup for several decades and continued to lead at this time, with its products becoming very popular.

Maybelline, Revlon, Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, Ester Lauder and Yardley were also popular brands.

 

LAUNCHES

1960 - Max Factor Sheer Genius launches makeup in 10 matt colors. It's kind of creamy foundation with matte finish, for women who did not shine.

1961 - Revlon launches the first liquid matte shade and shade of eyelashes with brush.

1962 - Max Factor Jr. launches an eye kit, composed of creamy shadow, powder, liquid shadow, eyebrow pencil, eyelash mask in pasty and creamy consistency, and mascara tube with wand.

1 - style creamy shade lipstick in pastel shades in blue, green, purple and silver;

2 - powder shadow in the same color of creamy shade;

3 - liquid shadow with a brush, in black, brown, golden, silver, green, purple and blue;

4 - eyeliner and eyebrow in black, brown, green, brown, blue and gray;

5 - mask cake, cake folder in black and brown colors;

6 - mask cream in black and brown colors;

7 - mask tube with wand in black and brown

 - Revlon - seeking to anticipate the launch of Cleopatra film, she makes a new reading vamp style created by Max Factor in the late 10th to the first version of the film. Thus, launches a collection with Egyptian theme that included: a pink sphinx lipstick, a pink enamel to match the lipstick and a trio of shadows with applicator brush, called Sphinx eyes.

 -  Maybelline launches kit false eyelashes.;

1963 - Maybelline launches product line to the eye with the slogan, all you need to do look cute. Consisting of: mask tube with wand, mask folder cake, cream mask with brush, eyeliner and pencil in one product, shaped shadow lipstick, liquid shadow, eyebrow pencil, eyelash curler, eyebrow brush and tweezers.

1964 - Ester Lauder launches lipstick swiss strawberry

- Max Factor Jr. launches online Brave New Pastels, consisting of lipstick, retractable pen lipstick and nail polish. Available in pastel shades in pink, coral and peach.

1965 - Max Factor launches three dimensional shadow in pastel tones and black eyeliner with a brush.

 1966 - Max factor launches shadows in cream and ultralucent fluid makeup - Ultra Liquid Illuminator

 

-Yardley launches lShiny Slicker Lipsticks

 

1967 – Yardley launches kit makeup face, composed of base finisher compact, lipstick trio and trio shadow.

- Revlon launches New face gleamer- creamy illuminator rod-shaped

- Max Factor Jr. Lança New shiny eye-liner only

1969 - Helena Rubinstein launches mask long lash

- Max Factor Jr. launches shiny eye-liner in blue color

 
 

CHARACTERISTICS OF MAKEUP

Lipstick - was applied following the natural contour The colors were softer like pink or coral.

Foundation - it was the same shade of skin or a lighter shade to give and youthful appearance. The liquid base was preferred.

Concealer - younger women did not wear the most matures and used before the base.

Powder - if He wore powder-compact or loose finisher and preferably in pink color.

Blush - was applied in a milder form in the center of apples and pulling up toward the temples.

Illuminators - were applied to highlight the cheekbone cheeks and temples. The texture was creamy rod-shaped or liquid. The colors were pink and beige and shades ranging from light to dark.

Eyebrows - were well marked with eyeliner and the thickness ranged from medium to coarse.

Shadow - the eye was the big star of the makeup in this decade. The mobile eyelid was covered with matte shade, the colors of the shadows were white, green blue, silver, gray and lilac. Who had green eyes or blue shade used in the same eye color.

Eyeliner - was made a thick line close to the line of the upper eyelashes. The most used colors were black and blue.

Eyelashes - the mask was used, but in a mild form, so that the eyelashes stay stretched and separated. The lower lashes were outlined with pencil. False eyelashes were very used, they were made from natural hair and synthetic hair Sables and some had rhinestones and glitter.

The Egyptian eye style of Cleopatra was widely used.

 

RELATED TEXTS:

 

                                                                       

COMMENTS

Di TRUCCO PER IL DECENNIO 40

Francesca Bianucci 21/08/2015
Ciao, ero alla ricerca del trucco degli anni '40 ho semplicemente amato i loro posti, sono favolose. .Io Non sapeva che Max Factor era provare successo nel XX secolo.
Mio nonno trovato così engrassado mia nonna dipingere le gambe creando i pantaloni calzini, ha mantenuto la embalagena per il futuro mostra nipoti.
Musicale Rosie è molto divertente. Molto bellissima tutti i rossetti rossi lanciati questo decennio. Ho letto anche il primo testo e ho trovato formidabile.

Make-up in de jaren 50

Linneke 20/08/2015
Hallo, een Franse vriend vertelde me over deze tekst, want ik ben een actrice en ik ben het bestuderen van de make-up in de jaren 50, die werd beschouwd als de gouden eeuw van make-up.
Ik ben onder de indruk van de kwaliteit van hun teksten. Ik zal bekennen, ik heb nooit vonden het Amerikaanse teksten en nooit gelezen elke Braziliaan. Maar zijn tekst, zowel de eerste als de tweede zijn prachtig. En het is net als iedereen het over heeft, uw teksten zijn van het web beste

VINTAGE MAKEUP PARTE II

Gebhardt | 18/08/2015
Hi Mary, I cconheci your blog at a conference and I was here in the text of micropigmentation.
I was looking for references of makeup during World War II, and coincidentally, encounter early in the research your blog.
This text is magnificent, very, very good. I had already done some pesquiss, but I have confesar, that his is far exceeding mine.
I read the first text and I am fascinated by the quality of their work
But what made me really surprised was the rapid growth of the blog, the intellectual level he achieved international popularity and frightening that it has.
You are a worldwide phenomenon in the make-up of texts.

Vintage maquillage, partie I et la partie II

Madeleine 17/08/2015
Bonjour Mary, un camarade de classe de l'école de maquillage parlé de ce texte. Je tout simplement adoré cette série vintage. Enfin, algéum rend un texte complet sur ce sujet.
Le texte français est bien résumée, ou copiez un blog américain, bien connu, qui n'a pas à expliquer quoi que ce soit. Américains textes sont 90% copies des ce site. Qui mieux écrire sur ce sujet, sont les Russes. Mais ils se concentrent très peu sur maquiaem et plus à la mode. Vos textes sont les plus complètes. Speaks un peu de la mode et les tendances de l'époque et souligne le maquillage et caractéristiques.
Il est pour cette raison que, même après avoir publié un court laps de temps, ils sont déjà vedette sur google.

VINTAGE MAKEUP PART II

Harrison 17/08/2015
Hi Mary, I live in London, study makeup, and a colleague talked about the blog.
I liked the whole blog. The text on micropigmentation, facial contour, color in makeup and all the others
However, as I'm studying the evolution of makeup in the 20th century, I loved the last two publications. Many of his texts I consider among the best, or the best of the internet. But these two publications, based on much study, are the best of the internet. Soon I will return.

VINTAGE MAKEUP

Annbjørg 14/08/2015
Hei, jeg søkte på google på sminke i det gamle egto og finn din tekst. Som i den første tekst hadde ikke rom for gjennomgang, se link som ledet meg til denne andre teksten.
Den første teksten jeg fant fantastisk, men denne andre teksten, er enda bedre. Wow, er svært rik tekster i detalj og informasjon, jeg elsket det.

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