Mary Lyrio

THE HISTORY OF THE CENTURY MAKEUP 20th - I PART -1900's, 1910's, 1920s AND 1930's

28/08/2015 13:12


EDWARDIAN ERA - 1901 1910

In the early Edwardian era, the makeup was still only boasted the stage actresses. A woman still could not be seen except with his natural face.

 The only exceptions were the rouge and powder. The rouge was applied on the cheeks, forehead and just a stain on the lips.

The image Gilbson girl was still reference.

 But all that has changed in a short time. London launched its "cosmetic shops" in 1909. In these counters, women could experience the cosmetics before you have to buy them.

 Even as there are several perfumeries, was the twentieth century that began to become popular with the emergence of Helena Rubinstein (1903), Papier Poudre (1903), Coty (1904), Princess Pat (1907), Harriet Hubbard (1907), Max factor (1909) and L'Oréal (1909).



The first real innovation in the development of cosmetic beauty for modern women emerged in the 1910s, during and after the First World War.

The first commercial mascara lashes was established in 1913 by Tom Lyle Williams paid tribute to his sister Maybel, giving the name of Maybelline.   

In 1914, Max Factor created the first makeup for film, the Greasepaint, who was a folder for the face, leaving you with a more natural appearance than that used back then in theater.


 The lipstick was invented in 1915 by Maurice Levy.  

In 1917, Maybelline improved formula the mask of eyelashes, becoming a compact mass that was applied with a wet brush.  

Max Factor, Helena Rubinstein, Elizabeth Arden and Coty began to produce their own lipsticks incorporating your own recipes and secret colors. But it was in 1920 that the real commercial success of these cosmetics began to take off around the world.  

Eyes were darkened with black or brown shadows covering the eyelids. his lips were dark and drawn, eyebrows were drawn and blush was applied in almost any face

The colors of eye shadows that were popular at the time included gray, green, brown and black.

Max Factor, who opened her salon in Los Angeles in 1909, was already making a name with his work on the Hollywood studio. He helped to create multiple movie makeup looks and among them the actress Theda Bara, the first version of Cleopatra in 1917. Another hollywood icon at this time was Lillian Gish. His eyes were strongly marked, well-painted eyelids and the outlined pulling out. This makeup style eyes became known as Vamp look Hollywood. Lips, lipstick was applied in the center, forgetting the corners and highlighting the "cupid's bow".

                                    HALL MAX FACTOR

  Theda Bara                                                                             Lillian Gish

The impact of these films on women was considerable. At this time, leaves the scene the Girl Gilbson and begins to emerge the first Girls Flappers, or flappers as they were known in Brazil. It was a generation of postwar women who have left the corset began to wear skirts four fingers above the ankle and cut their hair. The Ballet Russes, a phenomenon in London in 1912, also influenced the makeup of the time.


In this decade, the makeup style had two phases, phase during the war and post war phase


        Mary Pickford

Foundation - was used two shades lighter than your skin.

Powder - was used to give the pearl finish.

Cheeks - the rouge, blush as he was known at the time, it was pink and applied on a large number of triangular shape on her cheeks.

Lips - the rouge was applied bypassing the lips. The most used colors were red and cherry

Shadow - eyelids were painted brown or green, and the slightly outlined eyes.

Eyelashes - the first version of Maybelline mascara was not very well accepted. The lashes were neatly combed.

Eyebrows - well marked.


During this time women began to copy the makeup style of Hollywood stars.

Foundation - was still used two shades lighter than your skin.

Powder - was also used to give the pearl finish.

Cheeks - the rouge still pink, but now he went down a little in the face.

Lips - lipstick had been invented and it was applied in the center of the mouth, forming the "cupid's bow". However, this feature will be more pronounced in the 20 most used colors were still red and cherry.

Eyebrows - were well marked.

Shadow - the color was black or dark brown and her eyes were well marked and gently pulled at the outer corner, since starting a little vamp style hollywood that will have its apex in the 20s.

Eyelashes - Mascara was the big news and no woman could resist enhance your lashes.   



Innovations cosmetic 1910s, lipstick, eye shadow, mascara lashes, pancake, etc., brands such as Maybelline, Max Factor and Helena Rubinstein, are now widely used across America and Europe.

Makeup played a huge role in helping women recover from the horrors of war, and assert their new sense of feminine power. In addition, after the First World War there was an imbalance in the ratio of men to women and thus they began to compete with each other for the attention of men, making her makeup even more desirable.

It was a time of great peak selling makeup, women bought the novelty that large companies threw wildly.



  Theda Bara                                                                                 Clara Bow                                                                                   

Foundation - the most widely used color was ivory white.

Powder - was white.

Boca - lipstick was still applied avoiding the corners and being fuller in the center, formed the "cupid's bow". The colors were very dark as purple or purplish red.

Cheeks - the rouge was applied well in heavily cheekbone in a circle.

Eyebrows - were well marked.

Shadow - is the decade vamp style hollywood, well marked eyes, dramatic, with black shadow and gently pulled at the inner corner. His eyes were well outlined.

Eyelashes - well marked, but only the upper.

The Hollywood stars who were reference at this time were Theda Bara, Clara Bow and Mary Pickford.   



  Foundation and powder - were also applied in the same way.

   Lips - how to apply lipstick in "cupid's bow" was no longer so used. Now began to apply lipstick in the corners, but still not arredondava, a characteristic that will be well marked in the next decade. The most used colors were red and pink.

  Cheek - the rouge was still applied in the shape of a circle, but in smaller quantities.

    Eyebrows - were well marked.

    Shadow - The style vamp was no longer so used, his eyes were less marked and the most widely used color was brown

    Eyelashes - well marked, but only on the upper lashes.



This decade has undergone a major economic crisis due to the Great Depression that occurred in 1929 with the fall of the New York Stock Exchange.

As a result of the gradual emancipation of women, which began in 1920, they have become more aware of their independence of action and bolder in the way of expressing her femininity, leaving the scene altogether Flapper girl from the 10 decade of the final and half of the 20s and getting into the act more mature woman. Hollywood movies have become very important, because due to crisis for many people, the only entertainment available were the movies. Women copied the models of dresses, hairstyles and make-up of the popular film actresses.

In 1935 Max Factor introduced the pancake to the cinema, and subsequently to the varelista trade.

The great actresses who dictated the fashion of the time were Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Caroline Lombard, Ginger Rogers, Jean Harlow, Mae West, Joan Crawford and Bette Davis.    


         Jean Harlow                                                                                         Ginger Rogers                        


Caroline Lombard                                                                                              Marlene Dietrich

Bette Davis                                                                                        Joan Crawford

                  Greta Garbo

Great Cosmetics names like Max Factor and Elisabeth Arden became popular in the world of women.

Interestingly, cosmetics sales during the Great Depression increased significantly, and this is a trend that can still be seen during tough economic times. Sometimes dubbed the "Lipstick Index" is a controversial phenomenon that has been studied by economists for years.

The 30s was the era of blondes of Hollywood curls and all women wanted to copy. However, this time, the hair dyes have not been very good and many women hair quite spoiled.


The trace of makeup is noticeably more refined and elegant than the exaggerated lines of the previous decade.

Foundation - became the same skin tone or tone down with pink undertone and with a little sparkle.

Powder - the powder has changed from white to pink, also emerging the compacts.

 Cheeks - the rouge intensity gave a slight decreased and was applied to the apples and slightly below pulling toward your ears.

Lipstick - while in the 20s was avoided the outer corners of the lips in the application of lipstick, in the 30s not only filled the corners, but also the rounded, leaving the fleshy mouth. This type of mouth became known as Crawford Smear, due to actress Joan Crawford. The dark red lipstick purple was no longer used, the most popular color was pink, raspberry, red and orange.

Eyebrows - a kind of symbol of the decade makeup. They had to be thin and forming a long arc. Many women drew the eyebrows and redesenhavam with the pencil.

Shadow - women began to use two shadow shades of the same color and the most used colors were blue, violet, green and brown.

Eyelashes - the mask of eyelashes still widely used, but now also being applied to the lower lashes. There are reports that this time the mask of eyelashes was with ma brown color and the tips black. Long, thin eyelashes have become popular.

In 1938 dies one of the great names of cosmetics and makeup creator of the term, Mr. Maksymilian Faktorowicz - Max Factor.    




VINTAGE MAKEUP CENTURY 20th- PART II - the 30s, 40s and 50s